Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
